Alfred James Simson: His diary of his travels from England to Australia - 1869.

 

Alfred James Simson was born on 30 October 1844, in Middlesex, London, to Francis Webb Simson and Caroline Grace Simson (nee Goodwin).  Alfred passed away on 6 June 1930 in Burwood, Australia. A

Alfred served in the 1st Middlesex Engineers volunteers in the late 1800's and won a marksmanship trophy for shooting in 1866.

In 1869, Alfred took an opportunity to emigrate to the new colonies in Australia departing London in March 1869.  His diary was unfortunately much damaged, and transcription was made nearly 100 years after the trip but from his original diary, this is what was recovered and transcribed.

In the 1800's, sailing vessels followed a common route to reach Australia as shown in the diagram below.

The route taken by the sailing vessel in which Alfred was a passenger is shown below, (based on his diary notes)

A Long and Dangerous Journey

For those who travelled to Australia in the nineteenth century, the journey was often long and dangerous. In calm weather a sailing ship might take as long as four months, while a well-run clipper ship with favourable winds could make the journey in a little over half this time. These ships represented the pinnacle of sailing ship technology. With their streamlined hulls and acres of sail designed to catch even the slightest breeze, clippers were built primarily for speed.

Most migrants making the voyage to Australia in the second half of the nineteenth century set out unaccustomed to sea travel, but by the end of the journey shared an experience few others had – a passage through some of the world's most treacherous oceans. With the introduction of the faster, but more dangerous 'Great Circle' route in the 1850s, free settlers were ironically less likely to survive the journey than their earlier convict counterparts. 

In their dash to reach the Victorian goldfields in the quickest possible time, many ship's captains adopted the new 'Great Circle' route in the 1850s. Passing far south of the Cape of Good Hope, they sought the 'Roaring Forties' – the strong prevailing winds that blew from the west to the east between 40 and 50 degrees south. 

This route involved enormous risks from drifting icebergs and the wild seas generated by frequent storms. It required exceptional navigational skills, as even the slightest error could lead to disaster. The large number of ships that were lost when navigating the narrow path between King Island and southern Victoria led to the West Coast of Victoria becoming known as the Shipwreck Coast.

Most ships provided only basic toilet and bathing facilities. Authorities complained that even these were under used and the sailors often had to wash the upper decks which passengers used as open-air toilets. Some steerage passengers had never used a privy or a water closet before. Buckets of water were used to flush contents down to the bilges [under steerage], which were emptied when the ship finally docked at port. The smell would have been disgusting. 

The toiletting process became much worse in storms, or during the night, when passengers in steerage were locked in and no lights were allowed. Accidents were messy affairs. As people did not understand the basic rules of hygiene, and toilet paper had not been invented, rags or clothes were soaked in vinegar and hung on the back of the toilet door to be used by all. This led to the spread of diseases like dysentery and typhoid. Deaths at sea were common. 

On better managed ships, the areas below deck were thoroughly cleaned every few days by sailors and many of the women in steerage. Bedding which was usually made of straw, attracted fleas and cockroaches. People brought up their bedding in fine weather to shake it out and air it. However, in storms and bad weather, the bedding was often soaked through and this led to outbreaks of influenza and pneumonia. In the over crowded conditions in steerage, epidemics were common. Most victims were babies and young children, who often died of complications and lack of medical care. Infected passengers often came on board, having passed undetected through pre-boarding medical checks. Tuberculosis, an infectious disease of the lungs, was one of the most dangerous diseases. 

The sleeping berths were disinfected as often as possible, using a mixture of vinegar and chloride of lime. But often the cracks in the wooden slats of the bunks harboured lice, cockroaches and fleas. It was not uncommon for rats or mice to be found in the beds and bedding. 

Many people in the nineteenth century didn't bathe regularly and the connection between personal hygiene and disease was not well understood. Due to the cramped and overcrowded conditions in steerage, people could not really take baths and made do with a clean-up with a damp cloth under a blanket. Most people did not have the room to change their clothing and often wore the same garments or clothing for the entire voyage. Facilities for washing clothes were very restricted. Underclothes were virtually unknown to many people at the time, deodorants were not used and many people did not clean their teeth. One can only imagine the smells of soiled nappies, grubby clothes, and unwashed bodies in a crowded environment!

For those migrants who were able to read and write, it was a common practice to keep a diary or journal of the voyage. For most migrants the journey to Australia was a once-in-a-lifetime experience and keeping a diary was a way of recording this important event.

Diaries were also kept to lessen the pangs of homesickness and provide a routine with which to fill idle hours during the long monotonous days at sea. Some also had an eye towards publishing their memoirs.  What follows is an extract of the Diary of Alfred James Simson.

(1869)

Saturday 20th March 1869

Lat. 45,40 S. Long 65.0 E.

I was awakened at 4.00 this morning by the men Holy stoning the poop directly over my head. The noise was just dreadful. They put sand upon the deck, throw water on it, and then rub the boards with stones about the size of a book. Hence the name given to them. You can imagine the noise if you suppose the Holy stoning going on in the room over your head, only that my head is within a foot of the ceiling.

The weather is awfully dull, with a drizzling rain falling all day. Several very heavy seas struck the starboard side of the ship aft.

Lat. 45.50 Long. 69.53

Saw a number of Cape pigeons for the first time. They are very pretty birds, being white with large black patches on their backs. Had a hailstorm today.

             

Monday 22nd March 1869

Lat. 46.9 Long. 76.50

A good strong breeze blowing all day. A squall arising at about 10.00 at night, the foresail split with a loud report and was blown to ribbons before it could be clewed up. 

From noon yesterday to noon today, we have traveled 297 geographical miles.

 

Tuesday 23rd  March 1869

Lat. 45.21 S. Long 83.8 E.

A good breeze in the morning, lighter in the afternoon and stronger at night. The men were employed the first thing in the morning in taking down the remains of the old foresail and setting a new one.

Wednesday 24th March 1869

Lat. 45.0 Long. 87.25

The dull weather has returned again with a vengeance, none of us appearing on the poop all day. We amused ourselves with singing, playing and cards, staying up all night.

Thursday 25th March 1869

Lat. 44.47 Long. 93.33

Went on deck at 6.00 a.m. to see the sun rise, a splendid sight, the ship sailing directly towards it. A fine day, generally, with a few sharp showers now and then. 

Repainting of the interior of the vessel commenced today. One of the men was slung in a boatswain's chair to paint the main mast. Later, he wanted to be lowered in order to reach another part. The mate went to let him down and the rope slipping through his hand, the man came down with a run and sent the paint pot flying, completely covering the mate from head to foot with white paint. He had to retire to his cabin and change all his clothes, much to the satisfaction of all the seamen who witnessed it, he not being very much liked.

Friday 26th March 1869

Long. 98.45

I never imagined when I left England that I should be aboard ship this day, Good Friday.

Certainly not much respect is paid to the day here.

The weather being wet and a heavy sea running, the men have been employed in rubbing down old paint inside with sand and water and pieces of old canvas.

For tea, we had an apology for Hot Cross Buns, which our steward made. They were merely small buns of currant bread with a cross on them. 

As night approached a heavy sea arose with a terrific wind. The sea broke over the vessel on both sides, the ship running before the wind at the rate of 15 knots. About 10 pm, the clew casting of the upper main topsail carried way and the sail was with great difficulty furled. The tossing and rolling of the vessel kept us awake all night. About 3.30 in the morning, the upper foretopsail split from top to bottom with a loud report. In a few minutes, very little of it was left on the yard, the wind tearing it to rags. Several times, the vessel keeled over so much that the water poured over the bulwarks.

What with that, and the waves breaking over the ship, the decks were flooded with water nearly three feet deep. Some of the seamen were knocked down by the waves washed across the hatch. The water found its way into our cabin, and, at one time, was nearly a foot deep. Our chests were thrown about to the great danger of the partitions, which I expected to be stoved in. Everything that was not securely lashed was thrown about.

Saturday 27th March, 1869

Lat. 44.10 S. Long. 105.55 E.

A strong breeze still continues and a very heavy sea running. Our place is still swimming with water several inches deep. Although it is still cold, I have been walking about all day with bare feet and my trousers tucked up. At a little after 12 noon, the foretop gallant sail split and went to pieces, causing great excitement.

Sunday 28th March, 1869, Easter Sunday

Lat. 43.31 Long. 111.30

A good breeze still blowing. At 3p.m. a very heavy fall of hail, which lasted for nearly a quarter of an hour, the hail stones as large as peas and some as large as horse beans. I have never seen such large hail before. The seamen made snowballs of them and pelted one another. The decks were completely covered with them. It was a bright moonlight night later.

Monday 29th March 1869

Lat. 41.56 Long. 115.30

I could not help thinking all day about the review that is held today and wonder where it is to take place. This afternoon, I watched the proceedings of killing a pig and then washed out some clothes and in so doing, rubbed the skin off my knuckles. Another bright moonlight night.

Tuesday 30th March 1869

Lat. 41.2 Long. 114.35

The wind fell off during the day but blew towards evening from the North. Not as good a run today as usual.

Wednesday 31st March 1869

Lat. 39.57     

From the foretop gallant yard, sighted a vessel on the starboard bow, the S.S. (ships name left blank). Her sails only were visible from that elevated position and on deck was not to be seen.

From deck, the horizon is only seven miles radius. I have had that information from the First Mate, or I should have thought that we could see much further.

The wind freshened towards night when we moved along at eight knots. Seamen have been employed all day painting the interior of the ship.

 

Thursday 1st April 1869 

A most glorious day, the sun shining brightly and the South wind quite warm. We are making very good progress in our voyage. Painting still continues and the ship begins to look clean and neat. I have just made a journey up the rigging to look for the vessel I saw yesterday but it was not to be seen.

 

Friday 2nd April 1869

A strong North wind has been blowing all day and has driven us off our course E. by N.  with which course we hoped to pass through the Bass Straits but it is taking us more South so that the Captain has given up the idea of -passing through the Straits and is going round the South of Tasmania. Several heavy seas breaking over the vessel during the day.

 

Saturday 3rd April 1869

The ship has sprung a leak and in eight hours today when the carpenter sounded the well, there was three feet of water in the hold. It took three hours to pump it out. I made another journey aloft but nothing in sight. At about 4 0'clock, sighted a whaling ship on the starboard. Heaving towards us in about a quarter of an hour, it passed close to us in the fore. At 10 pm.  a heavy squall struck the ship and carried away the after lashing causing the gaff to come down and the sail to trail in the sea.

I assisted to haul it in and stow it.

 

Sunday 5th April 1869

On the topmast were stationed two men on the lookout for whales and the Captain called out the bearings of the Island of Tasmania E.S. E. It hailed from Launceston, Tasmania, and in passing hoisted the Red Ensign which we saluted with three cheers. Within a half an hour we sighted Tasmania through the mist and it appeared like a large cloud on the horizon.

We stood off from it to pass the rocks south of it and it was again soon lost to sight .

It was a bright sunny day and the North wind quite warm. Had a plum pie for tea. At 9 a.m. we passed the S.E. end of Tasmania and then squared the yards and headed N.E. by N. The land not being visible until evening. The afternoon was very wet and miserable. A large number of molyhawks followed in the wake of the vessel and we tried to catch some but were not successful as they no sooner fell in the water than they were picked to pieces by their company and it was again soon lost to sight

.

It was a bright sunny day and the North wind quite warm. Had a plum pie for tea. At 9 a.m. we passed the S.E. end of Tasmania and then squared the yards and headed N.E. by N. The land not being visible until evening. The afternoon was very wet and miserable. A large number of molyhawks followed in the wake of the vessel and we tried to catch some but were not successful as they no sooner fell in the water than they were picked to pieces by their companions.

Friday 9th April 1869

Have been moving all night at about five knots on our course and hoping toon to reach land. This morning, the lifeboats were hoisted from the poop over the sides and hung by the davits in their places. The wind kept freshening, and by noon we were doing ten knots which has been kept up during the rest of the day. The afternoon was employed by the seamen in taking in the after stern sail.

Monday 12th April 1869

Lat. 41.44 S. Long. 148.30

Turned out at 5.30 to look at the Eastern coast of Tasmania. It is much broken and covered with high cliffs here and there. We continued along the coast about twenty miles and at 7 0'clock passed Oyster Bay.

We were then heading North by the compass and the variation being half a degree to the East, I could trace the outline and towards evening sighted Furneaux Islands, a group lying in the Eastern mouth of Bass Straits.

During the greater part of the day, the winds have been light but at 6p.m, a strong breeze sprung up and took us along at ten knots per hour.

The men have been employed during the afternoon in getting the anchors over the side of the vessel and bending on the cables, at which performance we assisted.

At 7 p.m., on looking over the bows, I saw a number of porpoises playing around the vessel.

The side lights have been put out tonight for the first time since we managed to get out of the England Channel.

Wednesday 14th April 1869

Lat. 38.40

No land visible this morning as all night have been heading N. N.E. with the hopes of weathering Cape Howe but at 3 p.m. the land being sighted over our lee bow, the captain decided on going about in order to save us from running on shore, the wind then shifting round to N.E. By running on the opposite, we headed from S. to S.S. E., consequently we were running back again much to our disappointment.

In the evening it began to rain but did not continue long, and, as soon as it left off, I went on the poop to look about and I saw a most extraordinary thing. The whole surface of sea was one mass of light and brilliant stars. warm and as the sky was cloudy, the striking. The water on the decks was full of blue sparks, which, as it ran out of the scuppers and splashed into the sea, formed a multitude of stars which in our wake looked like a fiery serpent. caused the phosphorus in the water being heated and floating on the surface.

The Foretop mast sail was carried away by water as it was being lowered, a heavy sea breaking over the forecastle at the time.

Thursday 15th April 1869

Long. 151.36

I cannot answer for the correctness of the longitude as the skipper and mate have tried to keep us in the dark lately, but the Latitude I know to be right as it is from my own observation.

During the night, the wind has shifted right round so we are on our right course. The wind was not as strong as we would wish, and we only moved about four knots per hour against a strong head current. In the afternoon, he wind coming aft, the Captain gave the order to square the main yard, which command was hailed with cheers by all on board, and the yard was swung round much quicker than is usually, everyone assisting to haul in the main brace. At about 3p.m. the sheep had twins, all doing well. A strong wind during the night carried away the main royal stay.

The diary stops at this point, but Alfred James does arrive in Sydney to start his new life.

Alfred had a full life in Australia with adventures in the New Hebrides and later settling down with wife, Esther Simson (nee Cavanough) in Granville where he worked as a clerk/bookkeeper. Alfred was elected to Burwood Council and served as an Alderman for some years prior to his passing.