ACCOUNT OF VOYAGE FROM SYDNEY,
NSW, to Tanna, New Hebrides, South Sea Islands in the schooner Gulnare, and
other events on the Islands.
Thursday 18th May 1871
Went on board the Gulnare (photo of S.S Gulnare below) at
7.30a.m., she then lying between Fort Denison & Lady Macquarie's Chair.
Weighed anchor at 11.30a.m. when pilot came on board, but the wind dying away
at 1. 30 pm.
The Captain abandoned hopes of
going outside and then signalled for a steam tug which soon came alongside and
towed us to Watsons Bay where we anchored for the night, much to my
disappointment, as I already wished myself settled on the Island and hard at work
.
Friday May 19th1871
At 9.00am, the pilot again
came on board and a fine westerly wind took us outside the heads which we
cleared about 10. 00a.m. But our much looked for westerly soon deserted us and
at 11.30 it began to blow pretty fresh from the N.E. which, for us, was a head
wind and which increasing in force accompanied by much rain.
The Captain was forced to put
the ship about and run S.E. by E. much to my annoyance, as we were getting
further from our destination every hour. The gale increased and continued all
night and a little vessel like this, pitches so much that before morning every
bone in my body ached through rolling about on my bunk. Many, many times did I
wish myself back in Sydney again.
Saturday 20th May 1871
During the night the wind has risen considerably
and heavy seas are continually breaking over our poor barque, and, to add to
our comfort, it is pouring in torrents which render it impossible for me to
remain on deck, and yet it is very unpleasant in the cabin as the ship swarms
with cockroaches . At noon, the wind, having shifted a little, are headed N. by
W. until evening when we were approaching too near land. We went about and
again ran to S.E.
Sunday 21st May 1871
Just such another day as the
previous ones, excepting, if possible, more squally. At about 3. 30, a heavy
sea struck the vessel and sent a bottle of kerosene flying into my bunk, which
ran out all over my blankets. I can assure you, 1 wished the kerosene
elsewhere, you know. At about
6.00 in the evening, another
heavy sea caught us and burst open the door of the provision locker and sent
flour, tea and coffee all in a heap on the cabin floor. I never saw such a mess
before in all my life. It took the steward a good hour to put all to rights
again. I could not manage to get to sleep that night, so about 1.00 in the
morning I turned out and took possession of a bottle of ale (of which we have
plenty on board) and which Harper and I finished between us. After this, I
again turned in and slept until 8a.m. on Monday morning.
Monday 22nd May 1871
During the past night, a heavy sea struck the cook' s galley and carried away, nearly smashing everything to pieces, so we had to go without our breakfast, and it was not until 2p.m. that we had any dinner. It has been fearfully rough and wet all day, and the rain came into my bunk at night, adding to my discomfort.
Tuesday 23rd May 1871
This morning at 3a.m. one of
the seamen died. He was a native of Rotuman, an Island in the Pacific. He has been ill from the day we
started, which increased until he died raving mad. He was buried at 10. 00a.m. His body was wrapped in his bedding and a heavy weight tied to his
feet. It was then laid on one of the ship's hatches, one end resting on the
bulwarks of the vessel. The ship was then ‘hove to’ and everyone on board
attended the funeral.
The captain read the burial
service and his body was launched into the deep. It was truly an affecting
sight. The first burial at sea I have ever seen. Towards noon, the weather
cleared, and the sea became calmer, although the wind refused to shift to a
better quarter for us.
Wednesday 24th May 1871
How I long to be back in Sydney
this day (Queen's Birthday). It has been raining and blowing hard nearly all
day. I am already very tired of the voyage.
Thursday 25th May 1871
Friday 26th May1871
Still wet, and heavy sea
running. Getting further away from our course. Surely there must be a Jonah on
board.
Saturday 27th May 1871
Weather no better. Had no breakfast till 1 p.m. as the seas put all the fires out in the galley. I wish I had never placed foot in this craft. We are now about 500 miles further off our destination than when we started. It would have been much better for us to have remained in Sydney for another fortnight than to have been knocking about here.
Sunday 28th May 1871
At last, I believe the weather
is going to break. It looks brighter and
the wind has changed.
We are now heading N.E. by E.
which is not far from our course, although we have a great deal of lost time to
make up. It is very dull and weary on board. No comfort to be had. If you go on
deck you are wet through in a few minutes by the waves swamping over the
vessel, and if you stay below you are smothered with cockroaches. Pleasant, very
fancy I hear you say.
I turned into bed at 8.00,
rather different to the hours I used to keep in Sydney.
Monday 29th May 1871
This morning, when I awoke, I
was greatly surprised to find the sun shining brightly. I hope it will
continue. Our dog has just had a litter of pups, of which we kept three.
We have now 400 miles to make
up before we start again as if from Sydney. This evening we were caught in
three fearful squalls, the last of which happened about 12.00 midnight, and sent
us over on our beam-ends (ed. heeled so far on one side that the deck
is practically vertical). Only two men were on deck at the time, but the
shock soon brought all on deck. I have never seen such a fearful sight before.
It was blowing and hailing so hard that I could hardly stand, and the decks
were flooded.
Harper nearly broke his leg.
It was just as darkness fell. They let all the sails fly, and at last righted
the vessel. Greatly to everyone's
satisfaction, I am far from being timid, but I must own I was greatly relieved
when the vessel righted, and the squall had passed. After this, I turned in but
could not sleep for some time.
Tuesday 30th May 1871
A cold, dreary morning, but
luckily a fair wind. This afternoon, the
wind lulled and we therefore got out our fishing tackle and baited them for
some birds that were hovering around us.
Caught a small albatross,
which measured 9 feet across its wings. A large one will measure 12 feet. We
also caught a large molyhawk. We were forced to abandon our sport as the vessel
was moving too quickly through the water. Towards evening, it blew very
strongly from the south. Island where they now remain. The Island was
also used as a penal settlement some few years back, when the government of New
South Wales sent convicts there, some of whom have however escaped to New
Caledonia .
The night was beautifully
clear and bright, it being full moon, so we had a good sight of the Islands by
moonlight which had a very pretty effect.
Sunday 4th June 1871
This morning it was showery
till 11.00, when it cleared up and turned out to be a beautifully fine day. At
noon, in Lat. 27 .47 S Long. 167 .15E, nothing worthy of note occurred this
day.
Monday 5th June 1871
The weather is now getting
much warmer, which of course, we must expect. At noon, we stood in Lat. 25.36S
and Long. 168.45E This afternoon, during a squall, it carried away the jib boom
stay which was nearly the cause of our losing the boom. The mishap, however,
was soon rectified. This evening, the sea was beautifully illuminated with the
phosphorescent lights, which, no doubt, you have noticed on your voyage from
home.
Tuesday 6th June 1871
This morning broke with slight
showers which were very refreshing after a hot night.
This morning, a flying fish flew on board and we passed a whale, trivial circumstances in themselves, but when one is cooped up on board ship, he takes notice of anything which varies the monotony of the voyage. At noon, we found ourselves by observation in Lat. 23.37S Long. 169.25E. In the afternoon, the wind veered ahead of us and caused us to steer N.N.W. instead of N. by E. which was our proper course.
This
evening, I have been amusing all hands on board by playing various tunes on the
cornet. Our time is now 1 hour, 12 minutes ahead of Sydney time, so that when I
got into my bunk at 7.30 it was only 18 minutes past six in Sydney.
Wednesday, 7th June 1871
At 7 a.m., heading N. by W. Good
breeze from N.E. by E. Cloudy
weather at noon. Lat. 21.50s Long 168.54E. This afternoon, a school of Benita
fish were playing around our bows. One of the seamen soon rigged up a large
fishhook with rag to resemble a flying fish and managed to hook a Benita but he
did not manage to get it on board. The tackle, or something, gave way. A shark
was then sighted swimming astern. We rigged up the shark line and baited it
with beef, which he did not seem to care for as he passed it by many times
merely smelling it. After trying it for nearly an hour, we gave it up as a bad
job and adjourned to tea.
During the afternoon, the wind
has been getting lighter, and, at 6.00 in the evening, we were nearly becalmed.
At 8.00, the weather was very close and muggy and the cockroaches very unruly,
so much so that I was forced to take my bedding out of my bunk and place the
mattress on the top of our boxes where I tried to sleep but could not for the
intense heat.
Thursday 8th June 1871
A very hot day with showery
weather, no wind, the ship merely rolling lazily backwards and forwards the
sails flapping idly against the masts. Too hot to remain in our cabin. This
evening completes the third week of our voyage.
Friday 9th June 1871
A dead calm sea, almost
without a ripple, sun very hot — at noon Lat. 21.24S Long. 169.37 E. Have been
playing at Euchre all the afternoon. The sailors have all day been whistling
for the wind without their labour being of any service. I have never seen the
sea so calm before. During the whole of the day, we have not moved more than 12
miles. Fearfully hot tonight. Any amount of cockroaches.
Saturday 10th June 1871
A dull morning but without
wind until 8.30 when a strong southerly sprang up and took us along for 7 or 8
knots. We have been on the lookout all morning for the Island of Anatam where
we have to discharge a portion of our cargo.
At 1.15, I noted our dog put
his nose above bulwarks to windward and sniff the air. I looked and saw the
land looming in the mist, so the dog was the first to discover land. The vessel
was at once turned towards it and it proved to be the Island of Anatam, or
Amieteum as it is entered in the chart.
At 4.00 finding we could not
weather the Eastern point, we had to go about and run to the S.E. when we kept
backing until past midnight when we have hove to till daylight, as the coast
here abounds with coral reefs which render it very dangerous for any vessel to
approach too near in the dark.
I must here tell you what sort
of provisions we are now getting on board this blooming craft. Salt meat that
more than smells, it stinks so much that the dog will have none of it. Mouldy
biscuits that are getting maggoty. The potatoes have all been eaten. I tell you,
I have never fared so badly before. Had we known that the vessel was so badly
provisioned, we would never have left Sydney in her. A few more days, however,
will land us, and Thank God for it, I say.
Sunday 11th June, 1871
Went on deck at 6a.m., and
found the ship heading for the land, then about ten miles distant. Cast anchor
about 9.15 between Anatam and a small island to the South of it.
The Island of Anatam is very
pretty, very mountainous, and thickly wooded with coconut and other trees. Just
opposite where we are anchored is the missionary' s house, and further to the
right on a hill is a house belonging to the Captain of the "Bay
spring", the missionary schooner.
The natives of this island are
very much under the control of the missionaries, so much so that none of them
dare give away a coconut without first asking permission. It is the only island
in the South Seas where the missionaries have so much power. The small island
to the south is a sandy island on a coral reef. I went ashore there this
afternoon and found upon it several buildings filled up with every requisite
for the whaling trade which is carried on here during the season by the Messrs.
Underwood. The principal building is occupied by them as a dwelling house. We
have stores on board for them, which we shall discharge tomorrow.
I quite enjoyed by walk on
shore. I wandered about on the beach and collected very many beautiful
specimens of white coral and shells which I will send to you first opportunity,
with other curiosities which I hope to collect. I have only seen one native yet
as I have not been ashore on the main island yet. He had several pieces of
tortoise shell stuck through holes in his ears, which, in my opinion, by no
means enhanced his beauty. He had the decency to wear an old shirt, which
garment I am given to understand are not worn by the natives of the island to
which I am bound. But of that, I will tell you later.
Monday 12th June 1871
Having received an invitation
to dine at Mr. Underwood's house, I went ashore in the boat and walked up to
his house, which is a very comfortable one, being 50 feet long with a verandah
the whole length. I was introduced to Miss Underwood, whom I found had but
lately returned from Sydney, where she had been staying some months. It seemed
quite homely to sit down to dinner once more in a Christian—like manner instead
of having to hold on to your plate. I certainly far from despised roast pork
for dinner after the very odoriferous beef we have lately enjoyed. After
dinner, I went for a wail with young Underwood across to the main island where
I saw many natives.
The scenery is very pretty.
Coconut trees, bananas, bread fruit and sugar cane in abundance. We walked
through the bush for about a mile till we came to a waterfall and running
stream of fresh water. The passage of the water over the rocks overhung with
creepers and coconut trees. It was very pretty. By signs I made, the natives
understand I wanted some coconuts and bananas, and they made me understand that
they would bring some tomorrow, out to the vessel. We then returned to the boat
after visiting the chief of the natives, who is the oldest inhabitant of the
Island. We then sailed about the bay for some timer and a little before dusk,
returned to the ship.
During the day, the sailors
have been employed discharging cargo for Messrs. Underwood and taking it ashore
in the boats. After sitting on deck for about half an hour playing the cornet,
I turned in as it commenced to rain heavily.
.
Tuesday 13th June 1871
I have employed my time this
morning in doing a little washing, which, of course, I must now do for myself.
The last boatload of cargo for Underwood was sent ashore at noon. We expect to
leave here to Tanna this afternoon. Just after dinner, two of the natives came
alongside in a canoe with some bananas and coconuts, which we exchanged for a
small quantity of tobacco.
We now find that we cannot leave
here today, as the ship is short of water and firewood. We have to send ashore
for same tomorrow.
Wednesday 14th June 1871
This morning, I went ashore in
the boat which went to the main island for wood and water and took another
survey of the country. A large number of citron trees grow wild here, which are
laden with fruit. I brought three large citrons on board, together with a few
more shells.
On our way back to the
Gulnare, I called on board the schooner "Maria Douglas ", which was
lying not far from us. She starts tomorrow morning for Tanna for labour (Ed Note:
this ship was a slave ship engaged in Blackbirding that provided labour to Queensland and Fiji in the 1800 - early 1900’s).
Having taken in a good supply
of water and wood, at Sp. m. we heaved our anchor and squared our yards for
Port Resolution, Tanna, a strong S.E. wind soon carrying us away from Anieteum.
At about midnight, I was called on deck to look at the volcano or Burning
Mountain on Tanna, which was burning with a bright red light.
Thursday 15th June 1871
This morning, I went ashore at
Port Resolution, Tanna, with the captain and another passenger who was going to
stay there. A large number of the natives met us on the beach as we landed but
were very friendly. The females are the only natives who wear any garment,
which consists of a fringed grass petticoat. Both
men and women have large holes pierced through their ears, through which they
stick pieces of wood. After landing the passenger and his goods, we returned to
the Gulnare, which was hove to about a mile from the Port. then set sail for Black Beach, Tanna, our destination
where we landed by boat at about 4.00 in the afternoon, all armed with
revolvers and knives, ready for action.
The first thing I noticed was
a native house, the walls built of reeds woven together and the roof thatched
with the tops of sugar cane. I was very
soon introduced to two of the chiefs called Davon and Youoll, to whom by signs we
made to understand that we wished to see the land upon which we expect to
settle. They undertook to show us, and we started into the bush following their
tracks and keeping a sharp lookout.
We travel led for about 5 or 6
miles through dense masses of brush and reeds in some places so thick that we
had almost to crawl under them. There, a
great many coconut and banana trees and I managed to convey to Davon's weak
imagination, by pointing to the trees and then to my mouth, that I wanted some nuts. He climbed up and brought five, the milk of one I drank, being very thirsty.
I noticed the tracks of wild
pigs in the soft earth, and by that means ascertained the Tanna for
"pig", which is "buckhurs".
A dog they call "coorie" and food of any description
"kiki ". Their language, no doubt, they think very pretty, but to my
idea it is the most fearful language I have ever heard. The only covering Youoll
wore was a smudge of red paint on each side of his nose. Modesty prevents me
from saying more.
At dusk, we returned to the
ship where we slept for the night.
Friday 16th June 1871
Went ashore at Tanna at 6.30
this morning with some of the timber for our house. We soon selected a piece of
land upon which to erect a temporary house to shelter us and hold all the
stores, then set to work tooth and nail to clear it of bushes and grass, which,
having done at 10.00, we returned to the ship for breakfast, and then
afterwards returned ashore and started to work to put up our villa residence,
which we completed about 4.00, and then, with the help of the natives, we
managed to store away all our goods before the sun set.
Then, having had no dinner and
having worked like a nigger, I felt inclined for tea, which consisted of tea
made in a tea kettle and a piece of biscuit, I then made my bed on the floor,
laid my loaded revolver by my side, and, having chained our dog outside the
house, turned in, and was soon fast asleep .
At 9.00 at night, I was
awakened suddenly by the dog raising an alarm. We instantly jumped out of bed,
and, with revolver in hand, peered out of the door. I saw one of the natives
prowling around. I shouted to him and he jabbered something which I could not
understand, so I stepped out and showed him my revolver, which put a finish to
his survey, for he instantly skedaddled. I got back to bed but had to turn out
twice more.
Saturday, 17th June1871
After breakfast, which consisted of tea and Johnny cakes baked in the wood ashes we set to work to stack up the goods in the hut a little better and to make the outside a little stronger. These undertakings proved a good day’s work and I was heartily tired at the end of day..
Sunday 18th June 1871
This day was truly enjoyed as
a day of rest, which we much stood in need. We made some bread this morning,
which, unfortunately, turned out rather heavy, but no doubt we will improve in
time in that useful article of food. We dined on preserved meat, which proved
very good, and some of yams, which we roasted in the ashes (they turned out
most unpalatable). After a dinner we had
a visitor, a man who is staying on Mr. McLeod' s land a short distance from
where we have pitched our camp. He stayed with us all the afternoon and gave us
some useful information. He left us alone in our glory a little before sunset,
and we soon afterwards went to bed.
Monday 19th June 1871
This morning at daybreak, had
breakfast of damper and tea, and then started in the boat to visit Mr. Bell at
Wonbuckey Point about 8 miles distant from Black Beach. We reached there
between 9 and 10.00 and introduced ourselves to him. He very kindly showed us
over his land and gave no end of good advice. A short time ago, the natives
burnt and pillaged his place and he had to fly for his life to Ross Lewin 's,
the settler next to him. He is now back again and is getting just straight.
We bought a small pig there
which we brought back in the boat together with a lot of coconuts. On our
return journey, we landed 3 miles to the Southward of Black Beach and visited a
cotton plantation belonging to Captain McLeod of the Donald McLean. It is
managed by an African called George Washington Irving. Rather an aristocratic
name for a darky.
One of the natives who pulled
us in the boat belonged to Ambrihem and was called Bungey, another pretty name.
After leaving McLeod's place, we had a walk of two miles through the bush, and
at last reached home very tired and ready for tea.
Tuesday 20th June 1871
This morning, Harper and
Nisson went alone into the bush to examine the land and left me at home to take
care of the place and prepare dinner. With the assistance of a black cook, I managed
a dinner of preserved meat, boiled some salt meat and some potatoes to which
ample justice was done on their return.
After dinner, I went out with
the gun to shoot a pigeon which flew past our place. I bagged him and we had
him for tea. I hope to get many more like him.
Wednesday 21st June 1871
This morning after breakfast,
Nissen and I went for a long journey through the bush across the land, a
fearfully hot day which made me very thirsty, but as we had a native with us,
we sent him up the coconut trees for
some nuts, from which we drank the milk. The kernel of the nut I always now
throw away as I think the milk is the only good part of them. I have eaten the
nut till I am tired of them.
We returned home about 3.00,
thoroughly knocked up, so much so that I could not eat dinner.
This afternoon, I have
employed my time casting bullets, which we trade with the natives, who will
bring us two large yams for one bullet.
Thursday 22nd June 1871
From daybreak till dark, I
have been assisting to cut a road through the bush, which, at the part where we
are clearing, is heavily timbered, so that it is far from easy work. We have to
fell the trees and clear away, a compass giving us the direction.
Friday 23rd June 1871
Today, Harper and I stayed at
home to cook for those at work at the road. As I had some time to spare, I sat
down on my box and commenced writing to you.
In the evening, I took my
cornet and went to pay a visit to McLeod's plantation. The natives there had
never seen a cornet before, and at first ran away with fright when I sounded
it. Then one took courage and advanced with a blazing firebrand in his hand,
which he held over his head, and took a survey of myself and the instrument. Soon
after, many more joined him. I could not get any of them to touch the cornet.
They said it was the devil. I believe that they were as much awed by it as they
are by the revolver I always wear at my side.
I am now getting pretty conversant
with their language and can generally make myself understood. I asked them for
a song, at which I am sure you would have laughed, it was so absurd. One of the
blacks then played a tune, if you can call it so, on an instrument made of a
piece of bamboo and grass. It is very much like a Chinese fiddle.
The music was about on a par
with the singing, which says little for it at any rate. I laughed heartily at the concert and then soon returned to our semi—detached villa.
Saturday 24th June 1871
At home all day (if I can call
such a place as this home). Employed in
cooking and arranging plans for the future.
Sunday 25th June 1871
This morning, I took the gun
and went for a walk in the bush. Shot two
fine pigeons. They will make a good breakfast for us tomorrow. Dined off roast wild pig, which proved
excellent, and roast yams, which I am now getting to like as well as potatoes.
The schooner Donald McLean
arrived here today from Mali Cola, an island in the S. Seas.
Monday 26th June 1871
This day, I was employed
principally in making preparation for a long journey to Warbukket tomorrow to
see a plantation which is for sale.
Tuesday 27th June 1871
At 7 am this morning, left
Black Beach in a boat accompanied by Mr. Harper, Tom, one of McLeod’s
overseers, John, an Indian and two black fellows, natives of Ambrehim (Ambrym
Island). A fair wind took us to the North for about 7 miles, when the wind
shifted ahead, we had to take to the oars for the remaining 6 miles. We landed
there about 1.30 pm and were met by numerous natives of both sexes, both young
and old.
We then walked up to the
house. It was about 2 miles from the beach and built of reed work on the slope
of a hill commanding a view of the sea. The natives were very friendly and
killed a pig in honour of our arrival. They gave us part of it. We were also
favoured with a fowl from them, so that with roast yams, we had a sumptuous repast.
We slept in the house that
night and found it so cool and airy through the wickerwork, that, in the middle
of the night, I lit a fire in the centre of the room, and lay down beside it
till daylight.
Wednesday 27th June 1871
This morning at daybreak, we
were all up and stirring and, having made a hasty meal from the remains of last
night 's supper, we returned to the beach where we found nearly one hundred
natives awaiting our coming. Each had some native provision to dispose of some
yams, other pigs, fowls, bananas and coconuts. We purchased as much as our boat
would carry. In exchange we gave tobacco.
beads and knives, and then pushed off from the beach and sailed for Black
Beach, where we arrived about 12 pm noon. We then got some of the natives to
carry up our cargo. After this, we sat down to dinner.
I went down to the piece of
ground that is fenced in for the pigs, taking 2 natives with me to catch a pig
to kill, which we found no easy matter as they are very savage. I had a narrow
escape of being gored by a large boar, which, becoming desperate by our chasing
him, charged full at me. I had just time to i ump aside and hit him on the head
as he passed at full tile. He then wheeled round and was preparing to charge
again. I drew my revolver and shot him through the head, killing him instantly.
We then dressed him and cut
him into joints. Perhaps not so scientifically as a butcher would, but passably
well. The legs and head we have hung up to smoke. The remainder we have salted
for our immediate use.
Friday 30th June 1871
Occupied in settling boundary
marks of land.
Saturday 1st July 1871
Employed in clearing land of
brush and scrub. Very hard work under a boiling sun. We are now clearing the
spot upon which we intend to erect our house.
Sunday 2nd July 1871
At home all day reading and
taking it easy.
Monday 3rd July and Tuesday
4th July 1871
Have been working like a
nigger and a very hot sun, cutting down trees and bushes and burning grass. No
child's play, I can assure you. I am very tired when the sun sets, and we stop
work.
Wednesday 5th July 1871
I stayed at home today, being
on the sick list with a bad sore throat and a maimed hand which I cut severely
yesterday.
Thursday 6th July 1871
This morning, as usual, we
ascended the hill to work but at 8. o/c seeing a large number of Tanna men
collecting on the beach, we hastily returned home and ascertained the cause of
the meeting. It appeared that four different tribes from Sandy Beach, Wayooze,
Ebuck and the Bush had combined to attack the Black Beach tribes. The enemy' s
army were nearly all armed with a musket and numbered about 150.
They advance in very straggling order along the beach whilst we looked on from the door of our hut. mien they had got within 100 yards of the huts belonging to the Black Beach men, they commenced firing on them. After a smart skirmish of 10 minutes duration, the B. B. men retreated to the bush, after losing two men and one woman who were shot during the engagement. The enemy then pillaged the huts and returned along the beach laden with booty in the shape of yams and pigs, and in the rear of the procession, the bodies of the 2 B. B. men were carried. The bearers (who were decorated with paint) were chanting a war song. These bodies they carried into the bush and actually ate them.
The body of the woman they
left where she fell. It was about 2.pm
when we saw the last of them pass into the bush. I certainly thought that
cannibalism was a thing of the past, but it appears not, for one of the chiefs
told me that it is the custom in Tanna to so dispose of the bodies of their
enemies killed in battle.
The men were very friendly
towards us. Several of them who have served in Queensland for some time speak
broken English. I was not at all sorry when we had got rid of them although
they told us they intend to return tomorrow to have another fight.
Friday 7th July 1871
This morning, the dusky
warriors arrived upon yesterday's seat of action, about 100, all of them highly
decorated with red paint and black lead, which forms a very pleasing contrast
to their copper coloured skins. As you may suppose, they marched along the
beach singing war songs and chanting and howling like so many maniacs, but at
noon they all dispersed for the day, as they found that the Black Beach men had
skedaddled.
A few of the chiefs came up to
our place on their return and told us they intended to scour the bush tomorrow
in search of the fugitives. One of the peculiarities of the Tanna men is that
they only fight during daylight. At sundown, hostilities cease until sunrise
the following day.
Saturday 8th July 1871
At 7.30 this morning, whilst
we were seated at breakfast, we felt a sharp shock of earthquake, and, ongoing
outside, we could see our house swaying backwards and forwards. The earthquake
was accompanied be deep rumblings in the earth. None of the Tanna men have
appeared on the beach today, although I have heard some musket shots some
distance in the bush.
Sunday 9th July 1871
The captain of a vessel which
anchored in the bay this morning came ashore to see us. He reports the death of
one of his sailors and a Tanna man, being murdered on board his vessel by some
men from the Penticost Island who were going to Fiji. The murderers, twelve in
number, escaped, taking one of the ship's boats with them. It is quite a treat
to see and converse with a white man now and then, for, I can assure you, this
life is most dreadfully lonely.
Monday 10th July 1871
The captain of a cutter which
anchored last night, came ashore and told us he was leaving direct for Fiji, so
I forwarded my first letter to you by him instead of sending it by the Donald
McLean as I wrote in it I should send it.
All day we have been hard at
work with seven men we borrowed from Captain McLean in clearing. We have now
cleared the best part of an acre. No small undertaking, if you consider the
quantity of scrub and reeds we have had to cut away.
Tuesday 11th July 1871
The bushmen again put in an
appearance this morning and were much disappointed in finding that the Black
Beach men had not returned. so, to console them somewhat, we bribed several by
presents of tobacco and pipes to carry a large quantity of timber for our house
up to the top of the hill, where we intend to erect it.
Wednesday 12th July 1871
Having heard through a
friendly native of a report that the bushmen intend to attack and kill us, this
morning was occupied in cleaning all arms and loading with ball ready for their
reception.
The report may perhaps prove
groundless, but in a case like this, it is as well to be prepared. We can now
muster 3 muskets, 1 double—barrel gun and 4 revolvers, 27 shots in all. I trust
the time may never come when I shall be called upon to kill a human being,
which, I am sure, I would only do in the defence of my life. But should they
attack us, I will have no compunction in firing on them for I know they show no
mercy to those they conquer, so in return I should show them none.
Tuesday, 13th July 1871
A large number of the bushmen
from Wayooze came down this morning. They seemed very friendly and brought us
yams and bananas for which we gave them tobacco and musket caps in exchange.
But these men are, unfortunately, not to be trusted, they would smile upon you
and seem very friendly even whilst contemplating your death.
At 1 p.m., we had a visit from
seven other white gentlemen, who are settled on the Island, whom, you may be
sure, we were very glad to see. All dined with us, and, after spending a very
jolly night, sitting round a roaring fire outside our shanty singing songs and
I playing the cornet. Two of our visitors slept at our place and the remainder
at McLeod' s.
Friday 14th July 1871
After breakfasting this
morning, our visitors left us to return home, and we then started to clear a
piece of land to plant some potatoes. After doing this, we adjourned to dinner
and then went to the top of the hill to burn off some of the brush and rubbish
that we had cut down previously. This occupied us till dark.
I had a narrow escape this morning.
I was pulling up a root from the ground when it suddenly gave way and caused my
arm to strike my revolver, which I had in my belt. It suddenly exploded, the
bullet just grazing my thigh and then entering the ground. I will take care it
shall not happen again.
Saturday 29th July 1871
Messrs. Bell and Ross murdered
by Tannese.
Sunday 13th August, 1871
Ambeym woman shot at back of
house by Tanna man of Ootah named Yon.
Thursday 17th August, 1871
Oanatham houses burnt by
Tybinnia and her mob.
Saturday 2nd September 1871
Bushmen come; we must get away
at once.
Sunday 3rd September 1871
Left Tanna in Donald McLean,
called at Dillons Bay, Erromango Island, and then shaped our course for
Havannah Harbour, Sandwich, 17 .35S. 168.20E. where we arrived on Tuesday.
Thursday 7th 1871
Went aboard brigantine
Defiance bound for Sydney and which is now loading with copra. Left Havannah
Harbour on the morning of 13th September, bound for Erromango. Beat up against
a head wind and cast anchor in Dillons Bay on Sunday
afternoon 17th September. Took in seven casks of whale oil belonging to Gray
and Smith, and left Erromango on Monday evening, 18th September. Off Singalee
Tanna, Ross Lewin s place on Wednesday 20th September, landed some goods there
and took Mr. and Mrs. James aboard as passengers for Sydney. Left Tanna same night.
Off Cronstants Station
Anieteum on the morning of 22nd September and off Underwood's place in the
afternoon at 5.30pm.
Left Anieteum bound for Sydney
where we cast anchor at 6.15pm on Monday 9th October, 1871.
THE
DIARY ENDS HERE
At the
back of the diary is a table of translated words and short phrases.
|
Buckhurs |
Pig |
|
Manouck |
Cock |
|
Coorie |
Dog |
|
Telon |
Tomorrow |
|
Semassen—Sedouit |
Very good |
|
Selcha—detath |
Very bad |
|
Sorri Sorri Arsole |
Large |
|
Sisi Nagerock |
Small |
|
Reka Deka |
All gone |
|
Noobass |
Tommyhawk |
|
Assie Yargus |
Axe |
|
Inedaug |
Air |
|
Bukkis |
Bucket |
|
Nebbin |
Banana |
|
Gaboose |
Shell |
|
Mabbily Marble |
Lay dowri |
|
Jago Mabbily |
Go to sleep |
|
Eda |
Come on |
|
Mimi mi eo—eoiea |
Come here |
|
Ne-eu |
Coconut |
|
Jago oridabu |
|
|
Jaga Oicdic |
Don 't understand |
|
Ninghau |
Fire |
|
Mama Oabbry |
Go to bed |
|
Marke |
Pigeon |
|
Mou |
Moon |
|
Mid |
Sun |
|
No Vania |
Where are you going |
|
Arn Duen |
I understand |
|
Assa Miki |
Work quick |
|
Non |
Knife |
|
Matta Mato |
Sick or will |
|
Pus wewum |
Bye and bye |
|
Wuneari |
Beads |
|
Bau |
Fresh water |
|
Toneen |
Day after tomorrow |
INTERESTING
FOOTNOTE
Circa 1996, 125 years after
Alfred dined with the Underwood family on the island of Anatam (also noted as Anatom
or Aneityum and recorded in the diary as
Aneitum), his great grandson, Raymond Andersson and wife Cornelia dined with
the descendants of the Underwood family (Cattle industry leader, John Underwood
and his wife, noted author Terry Underwood OAM), in Darwin at a tourism ‘Brolga
Awards’ event held on the Darwin Casino lawns. A night of music, light entertainment and much enjoyable conversation.
NOTES
Aneityum is the southernmost
island of Vanuatu. Its southeastern cape Nétchan Néganneaing is the
southernmost point of land in Vanuatu, more southerly than the southern
satellite islet Inyeug. The latter, however, is surrounded by Intao Reef, that
extends even further south, albeit submerged, thus being the southernmost
feature of Vanuatu. The island is 159.2 km2 in size. It rises to an elevation
of 852 m in Mount Inrerow Atamein. The larger of its two villages is
Anelcauhat, on the south.
Erromango
Erromango is the fourth largest island in the Vanuatu
archipelago. With a land area of 891.9 square kilometres (344.4 sq mi) it is
the largest island in Tafea Province, the southernmost of Vanuatu's six
administrative regions.
Tanna
Tanna (also spelled Tana) is an island in Tafea Province of
Vanuatu. t is 40 kilometres (25 miles) long and 19 kilometres (12 miles) wide,
with a total area of 550 square kilometres (212 square miles). Its highest
point is the 1,084-metre (3,556-foot) summit of Mount Tukosmera in the south of
the island.
Tanna was first settled about 400 BC by Melanesians from
the surrounding islands. The glowing light of Mount Yasur attracted James Cook,
the first European to visit the island, in August 1774, where he landed in an
inlet on the southeastern tip of the island that he named Port Resolution after
his ship HMS Resolution. He gave the island the name of Tanna, probably from
the local name for earth, tana in the Kwamera language.
In the 19th century, traders and missionaries (chiefly
Presbyterian) arrived. The Tannese stuck to their traditions more strongly than
other islands; there remain fewer Christians in comparison with the other
islands of Vanuatu.
Whaling vessels were some of the first regular visitors to
the island in the nineteenth century. The first on record was the Rose in
February 1804. The last known such visit was by the Sea Ranger in September
1871.
Many geographical names of places on Tanna appear to have been lost over the years or were misspelt by Alfred
Sydney
Morning Herald Articles of the period.
Sydney
Morning Herald 10 October, 1871
"Defiance"
at MacNamara's Wharf
Adventure, opportunity, guaranteed
success, native compliance
"Defiance"
arrival is recorded with "Simson" as a passenger, Schooner of 136
tons,
Captain
W. Beedell, from South Sea Islands. Other passengers: Mr. & Mrs. James,
Messrs.
Harper & Suemadt. Scott Henderson & Co., Agents. Cargo: 70 tons copra,
8 tons black oil, 8 tons candlenuts, 2 kegs arrowroot, 2 packages of fungus, 2
casks shark oil, 2 packages ofbeche de mer, I case tortoise shell, 10,000
coconuts, 5 tons sandalwood, 1 bale of cotton.
"Murder and
Cannibalism at Tanna"
By
the arrival of the schooner Defiance, we leam that Mr. C. Grut, a resident on
the Island of Tanna, had been brutally murdered and afterwards eaten by the
natives. He was killed during the night time.
Sydney
Morning Herald 16 October, 1871
Cannibalism
vs Tobacco
The
following anecdote confirms the truth of the physiologists' assertion that
persistent indulgence in inordinate smoking results in the absorption of the
actual essence of tobacco into the very tissues.
Captain
Wilkes, in an exploring expedition, interrogated a native of the Fiji Islands
as to the fate of the crew of a vessel whose shattered hull still lay upon the
beach. "All kill," replied the savage. "What did you do with
them?" asked the Captain. "Eat 'em. Good." Returned the cannibal
"Did you eat them all?" inquired the half-sick captain. "All but
one," holding up a finger. "And why did you spare one?"
"Cause him taste too like tobacco; couldn't eat him no how. " — The
Food Journal.
There
was a list of addresses on the inside cover of the diary:
A.J.
Simson
68
Welbeck Street
Cavendish
Square
London England
A.J.
Simson
26 Bow
Street
Covent
Garden
London England
A.J.
Simson
41 Hunter
Street
Sydney NSW
13 George
St. North Sydney.
Also,
on a loose sheet of ruled note paper in the diary was a ditty written in ink.
It did not appear to be written in Alfred James Simson’s hand.
Merrie England
No sun,
no birds, no laughing here,
No steak,
no onions, no good cheer,
Just
frost and snow and watered beer,
In England.
No coal,
no coke,
No
paraffin for any bloke,
The country
' s broke,
In England.
No light,
no power, no heat,
You stand
in queues with frozen feet,
and then
you get no meat,
In England.
water's frozen at the mains,
the road's
all ice and bunged up drains,
The
council's got no brains,
In England.
Best place
is bed,
with
sealskin cap on head,
You might
as well be dead,
In England.
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